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A winery grows in Brooklyn

Brooklyn Winery, Williamburg’s own, and Brooklyn’s first, wine making center is now offering Hard Hat Tours of the soon-to-be-opened space. Co-founders Brian Leventhal and John Stires recently took Dine & Cook on a personal tour of the already impressive premises during the construction period.

The winery is divided into five public spaces that take up nearly a half block on North 8th between Roebling and Driggs: a front garden at the entrance; a large bar and seating space; a wine making center; a barrel room; and a private dining and tasting hall. 

Leventhal and Stires describe the design as being as organic as the winemaking process itself.  “Living walls” draped in succulents and vines will be used to create intimate seating areas, they can also be pushed back to accommodate large parties.  The walls will be covered in reclaimed wood and exposed brick, the bar in distressed zinc.  The light fixtures were found in abandoned warehouses, insane asylums, and junk sales.  Just as each bottle gives way to the weather in certain regions of Napa, every inch of the winery’s interior-- down to the bathroom stalls-- will tell the story of where it once was.

The bar area will include a loft perfectly suited to host a book reading or a small band--both of which Leventhal and Stires hope to include on the event list.  The space can morph into anything the neighborhood needs-- from Williamsburg’s on-the-pulse music scene, to classic rehearsal dinners, to educational programming for foodies and wine enthusiasts.  The commonality will be found in the wine itself--all events will be graciously hosted by bottles of Cabernet, Merlot, Zinfandel, or Pinot Noir (among others) made right on the premises.  The winery will also include a kitchen serving small plates at the bar and a full catering service for private parties and hosted events.

The “Hard Hat Tour” exposes the public to the minutia in detail being considered during the construction period of the space.  Conor McCormack, the resident winemaker out of San Francisco hired early on by Leventhal and Stires, has been key to the design and construction.  They day we arrived, the floor of the winemaking lab had been demolished in preparation for a new concrete floor requested specifically by McCormack.  All is being done by “by the book” in accordance with wine zoning guidelines with the quality of wine its first priority.

As for the winemaking-- the public is invited to participate in the “Grapes to Glass” experience of wine preparation.  Orders are being taken now for grapes that will be ready for the fall harvest.  Have you the requisite $5,700 for a barrel (breaks down to 300 bottles at $19 a pop) McCormack will personally aid in the pre-harvest grape selection, the inspecting, sorting, crushing and de-stemming.  You will then help press the grapes, separate the wine from the must, and transfer the liquid to your own oak barrel.  Next is racking and finally tasting the premature wine.  A few months later you will be asked to fill, cork, cap, and label your bottles with your own custom designed wine and label.  The winery encourages groups and businesses to join efforts in the process to cut back in both cost and commitment.

It is easy to jump to a comparison with Manhattan’s City Winery, but even in this early stage, Brooklyn Winery appears to stand alone in its approach to urban winemaking.  It is truly a testament to the food industry’s shift from white linens to distressed butcher blocks.  No longer is wine reserved for the elite and the educated, but it is presented to the general public with eager explanation and a passionate clarity.  While retaining Napa’s strict winemaking standards, the winery maintains a strong sense of “Brooklyn” in its aesthetic and approach.

Brooklyn Winery anticipates a grand opening in late September or early October.  Until then, progress can be followed on the website and blog: http://www.bkwinery.com/blog

Brooklyn Winery is located at 213 North 8th Street Brooklyn, NY 11211

Opening day is expected in late September or October.  Call or stop by now for Hard Hat Tours and wine making reservations. (347) 763-1506

Sarah Butler is a freelance writer based out of Brooklyn, New York.  You can read her personal blog here.


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